Monday, September 21, 2009

Day 8: Aswan - Feluca Ride

Day 8 - Aswan, Felucca trip towards Luxor

Daytime High: 45C

Today was awesome for recovery after the very early start yesterday. We did not leave the hotel until 10:30, so we got to sleep in and relax. The hotel breakfast was the best so far (worst was the overnight train from Cairo to Aswan which consisted of bread, some bread, followed by more bread, finished off with a slice of bread). The breakfast at this 4 star hotel and a very nice spread and included a great cereal selection... corn flakes and cocoa puffs (not lying, although there is no photo evidence). We ate and used the bathroom way more than needed because we were sailing down the Nile in a felucca, a traditional Egyptian boat, which does not have a bathroom...Sherrill, with the bladder the size of a cherry, was stressed out all night over the threat that you could only go pee once every two hours...

The trip down the Nile was fantasitic and very relaxing. We lounged under the cover of a sunshade a sailed, QUIETLY down the Nile. This was the first time in a week where we had some tranquility, at least when the Club Med cruise ships weren't rocking the waters with their diesel engines. We had two boats and a support boat, and spent the afternoon reading, snoozing and taking photos. There was very little chatter, as most everyone enjoyed the peace. Even on the water, it was still warm, so I fashioned a sun shade out of my "Iron Sheik" head covering. Sherrill now has a kink in her neck after only being able to lie one way on the boat - the traditional clothing of the Egyptians and Nubian men is this one piece, cotton Shirt that extends all the way to the ankles. Unfortunately, "undergarments" appear to not be consistent, and with our Captain in a squat position steering the Feluca, Sherrill got one to many glimpes of his jewels...she now complains that she is blind in one eye...
Ou Felucas!!! Note the "Captain" in All-White and Homage to Bob Marley...
Feluca - Sponsored by MacDonalds
Vince Sneaking in...
Our Feluca Bedmates...I can now say that I have slept with them...

The only mishap of the day occurred when our captain, an old Nubian gentlemen, gave me the rudder while he went to check the sails just prior to docking for lunch. His English is as good as my Nubian, so he gestured for me to take the rudder and point it straight towards the support boat which was docked. Being the exceptionally adept sailor that I am, I just left the rubber pointed straight at the boat until he finally realized we were on a t-bone collision course. He started screaming in Nubian as his hands were on the sail ropes, I started pushing the rudder both ways, neither of which reduced the chatter from him. Our guide, unfortunately, does not speak any Nubian, so he was just as confused as the rest of us. Finally, Dave, one of the crack linguists and part time sailor figured out what the old dude wanted and steered us the right way. It took both of us to move the rudder as we had picked up a lot of speed and finally the boat came to rest in a small, boggy, debris filled swamp next to the support boat. Unfortunately, the old dude, dressed head to toe in white garments, had to jump into the swamp and get us out. He was muttering the whole time, and I have the imagination to figure out what he was probably saying.
Vince Goofing Off - Seconds before the feluca was beached...
We docked for the evening, tied to the supprot boat where we had our dinner. We joined up with another Gap group and packed the upper floor of the support boat. Dinner was very good and enjoyable. The generators needed for lighting, were not quiet so much, but hey, we did have our quiet time for the day and this is Egypt, so it was a back-to-reality wake up call.

The stars were visible in the night sky as the light pollution was minimal, but the air pollution was typically thick, so they were not as brilliant as other spots we have star gazed (Nepal still ranks as number one for me).
Sunset on the Feluca (they can't sail after sunset) - Note the guy at the top of the mast!!!
Holy Hannah!

It was an early night as we have a very early morning as we head to Luxor.


Our Sleeping Arrangements (and Vince stealing Sherrill's sunrise spot)...
Karma - since he woke up with 20 bug bites and prayers that he didn't have the West Nile Virus...

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